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Kath Giel August 3–16, 2025
Have you ever had a penguin or sea lion look you in the eye through your snorkel mask? Or had a Booted Racket-tail land on your hand or head, its tiny wings brushing your skin? Or been stopped on a trail by a Blue-footed Booby and its chick, refusing to move even though you're just inches away? These were just a few of the unforgettable moments we experienced on the LAS Ecuador and Galápagos trip, organized by Holbrook Travel, which far exceeded our expectations—for birds, scenery, expert guides, and great camaraderie. Chocó Andes: Hummingbirds, Antpittas & More Our group of eleven (*see below) began our journey in Quito, where we met our incredible birding guide, Antonio. After a welcome orientation, we headed toward the Mindo region via the highlands, and our birding adventure began almost immediately. On the way, we were treated to a rare soaring display by a pair of Andean Condors, and a moment with the spectacular Sword-billed Hummingbird. Continuing on and climbing to 11,000 feet, we reached Yanacocha Reserve, part of the Jocotoco Foundation network (*see “Our Story” below). Here, we encountered a dazzling array of hummingbirds including Shining Sunbeam, Green-tailed Trainbearer, and Sparkling Violetear. A stream crossing produced a lovely White-capped Dipper. We arrived at Sachatamia Lodge just before dusk, welcomed by Golden, Flame-faced, and Lemon-rumped Tanagers—and a curious agouti. Our first toast? Warm pineapple juice with aguardiente! Over three full days in the Mindo area, we enjoyed a very full birding itinerary. At a pre-dawn blind, we watched as moth-attracting sheets brought in hungry birds. Within an hour, we had Long-Wattled Umbrellabird, Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner, and Strong-billed Woodcreeper and many more, while a Golden-headed Quetzal sang overhead. At Reserva Amagusa, we had fantastic views of two Chocó endemics: Moss-backed Tanager and Rose-faced Parrot, plus a beautiful Orange-breasted Fruiteater. A dawn hike to a Andean Cock-of-the-Rock lek offered an extraordinary display: 10–15 males dancing and calling, with two females egging them on. At Ángel Paz’s Refugio Paz de las Aves, we witnessed the legendary antpitta feeding, spotting Giant, Yellow-breasted, and Ochre-breasted Antpittas. At Alambi Reserve, we enjoyed our first great look at White-necked Jacobin, among hundreds of hummingbirds. From the tower at Sachatamia Lodge, we also logged the endemic Chocó Toucan. Cultural Stops & Heading to the Islands Before returning to Quito, we made some non-birding but equally delightful stops: the Mariposario de Mindo (butterfly farm), Jardín de Orquídeas, a private orchid garden, and a delicious tour and tasting at Mindo Chocolate Makers. At the Intiñan Solar Museum on the equator, we had an entertaining tour to learn about the latitudinal hemispheres. Near the airport, we spotted our first Cocoi Heron. That evening, Ecuadorian bird illustrator Juan Manuel Carrión gave a fascinating talk about the Ecuador’s biodiversity and that of the 13 countries the equator crosses. What an end to our brief time on the mainland! To the Enchanted Isles: Galápagos Begins We said farewell to our mainland guide and flew to the Galápagos Islands. As you probably know, the Galápagos Islands, located west of mainland Ecuador, are an archipelago of volcanic islands. We mostly know of the the Galápagos as the inspiration for Charles Darwin’s theory of evolution based on his experiences there. The islands are all protected as part of the Galápagos National Park and Marine Reserve. We left the airport and boarded the comfortable Tip Top IV, our transport and accommodation for the next 8 days. Our first landing was North Seymour Island, where Magnificent and Great Frigatebirds were nesting, many with inflated red throat sacs. We marveled at Blue-footed Boobies with eggs and chicks—so close you could almost touch them. On Española Island, we watched Waved Albatross performing their courtship dances and saw Nazca Boobies on nests. Endemic species included the Española Mockingbird, Gray Warbler-Finch, and we also saw Small and Española Ground Finches. At Gardner Bay, Galápagos Sea Lions swam among us as we snorkeled. Red-footed Boobies, Dolphin Encounters, and the Charles Darwin Research Center Moving on to San Cristóbal Island, we observed Red-footed Boobies and the San Cristóbal Mockingbird at Punta Pitt on the island. Along the hike, we added Small and Medium Ground Finches to our list. Enroute to our next landing, a pod of 200+ Bottlenose Dolphins surrounded our boat, jumping and tail-slapping—one of the highlights of the trip. At Cerro Brujo, we walked a pristine beach and snorkeled with colorful reef fish and a Whitetip Reef Shark. The next day we docked in Puerto Ayora, the largest town in the Galápagos, for a visit to the Charles Darwin Research Station, learning about Galápagos Giant Tortoise conservation and the unique ecosystems of the islands. In the highlands, we walked among giant tortoises, visited lava tunnels, and admired the Scalesia forest, home to the famous giant daisy trees of the Galápagos Islands. A free hour in town gave us a chance to relax and shop. Marine Iguanas, Tropicbirds, and Kayaking We moved on to Santa Fe Island where we hiked among tall Opuntia cacti in search of Santa Fe Land Iguanas. Afterward, snorkeling and kayaking in Barrington Bay revealed Hawksbill Turtles and dazzling reef fish. South Plaza Island offered cliff-top views of soaring Red-billed Tropicbirds, Galápagos Shearwaters, and more. In the water below, Mullet and Angelfish fed at the surface. We enjoyed the brisk breeze off the sea, enticing the birds to perform acrobatics in the wind. The next day after our boat traveled in the night we hiked to the summit of Bartolomé Island beside the iconic Pinnacle Rock, learning about volcanic formations from various epochs. Our snorkel there was unforgettable--Galápagos Penguins, Marble Rays, Galápagos Sea Lions, Hawksbill Turtles, and White-tip Reef Sharks swam nearby. Later, at Sullivan Bay on Santiago Island, we explored surreal lava formations, then cruised past the rocks to see three more penguins! Flamingoes and Final Farewells Our final day brought us to Rábida Island, which dazzled us with its red-hued sands. A coral reef snorkel added more fish, Whitetip Reef Shark, and a group of five Galápagos Penguins darting across the reef. At Chinese Hat Island, a playful young penguin entertained us underwater during a snorkel. A final hike revealed Marine Iguanas gathering in lava tubes as high tide approached—a magical end to our Galápagos experience. On our final day we got up early for our final landing, a brackish lagoon at Playa las Baches where we spotted American Flamingos and White-cheeked Pintails, and on a short hike, both Cactus Finch and Galápagos Flycatcher made long-awaited appearances. A final dinner in Quito was a celebration of all we saw and experienced. In the birding arena, we tallied 183 mainland Ecuador species and 50 Galapagos species. We also learned so much about the rich biodiversity of not only Ecuador and the Galápagos Islands, but also the equatorial landscape of our world. This information was complimented by meeting and supporting the people dedicating their lives to sharing their stories and protecting these wild landscapes and birds. It was truly a trip of a lifetime. * LAS Trip Participants: Valerie Andersen, Reno; Lori Austin, Oakland, CA; Stephani Foraker, Buffalo, NY; David Forsyth and Alesia McManus, West Sacramento, CA; Theresa and Ron Jones, Carson City; Kathy Oakes, Reno; Suzie and Dave Roberts, Reno; Kath Giel, Reno. **Our Story: The Jocotoco Foundation Many years ago, a small group of birders exploring a remote mountain slope in southern Ecuador heard an unfamiliar song. As they approached, a bird leapt onto a branch before them—unknown to science. It would soon be named the Jocotoco Antpitta, and the forest became the Tapichalaca Reserve. That discovery inspired the formation of the Jocotoco Foundation, which has since protected rare species and habitats throughout Ecuador, expanded into marine conservation, and restored countless acres of cloud forest. Jocotoco is a powerful example of how a small local effort can have national—and global—impact. Learn more |
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